Fragrances

Buy and sell fragrances in Panama.

A designer eau de parfum still in its cellophane, a heavy amber from one of the Arabic perfume houses that have become a fixture in Panama, a row of small glass decants poured from someone’s collection: fragrance here moves in more shapes than the full bottle in its box. Testers in plain boxes and gift sets sit alongside, for women, for men and, more and more, for both. What a buyer needs to know is whether the box is sealed, how much is left if it is not, whether the bottle is what it claims to be and where it has been kept.

Concentrations printed under the perfume’s name:

they tell you how long a scent stays on skin, not how good it is. Eau de cologne is the lightest and fades fastest, eau de toilette lasts a morning, eau de parfum carries into the evening, and parfum or extrait is the richest and comes in the smallest bottles. The stronger version of a scent is not always the same smell turned up: an eau de parfum often leans warmer and sweeter than its toilette. Body mists are lighter still and sit closer to the shower gels in bath and shower than to perfume. Perfume oils, rolled on rather than sprayed, come from the Arabic tradition; they stay close to the skin and suit an office, and an unscented lotion from skin care underneath helps any of them last.

Arabic perfume houses and the decant habit in Panama:

between them they have changed how people here buy scent. Houses from the Gulf make dense, sweet, oud-heavy perfumes, many openly built to smell like a famous designer fragrance. That is a legitimate product when the bottle carries its own house name and simply says what it is inspired by; it is a fake when it carries the designer’s name. Decants are the other habit: someone pours a full bottle into small glass atomisers and passes them on, so you can wear a scent for a week before committing, which matters because perfume changes on skin over hours. A decant is only as honest as the bottle it came from, so ask to see that bottle, with its batch code, next to the vials.

Arabic bottles, designer bottles and what a decant costs:

a full bottle from one of the Arabic houses runs from about $25 to $45 in Panama, and a designer eau de parfum of the same size costs several times as much. A decant of around 10 ml goes for $5 to $10 poured from an Arabic bottle, which is the whole case for them: a week of wearing something for the price of a lunch, before deciding whether it deserves a full bottle. An opened bottle is priced on what is left in it and whether the box came too; a sealed one with its cellophane intact is worth far more than one sprayed even once.

Batch codes, cellophane and the cap on a genuine bottle:

counterfeits slip on exactly these details. The cellophane on a sealed box should be tight with narrow, neat seams, not loose or glued in lumps. The batch code on the base of the bottle should match the one stamped on the box, the sprayer collar should sit straight, and the cap should feel solid and close firmly. Misspelt or blurry print is a warning. A tester, in a plain box marked not for sale and sometimes without a cap, is the same perfume without the presentation, though testers get copied too. A genuine bottle can still have turned: light and heat break down the top notes first, so a perfume kept on a bright windowsill or bathroom shelf opens sharp, sour or like nail varnish. Fresh citrus scents go soonest; ambers and woods hold up longest.

The fill line on a bottle you are passing on:

hold the bottle against a window or a white wall so the level shows in the photo, and describe it in words a buyer can hold you to, such as nearly full or about half. Add the base with its batch code, and the box if you kept it. Say plainly whether it is a tester, a gift set missing a piece or a decant, and if you decant from your own bottles, label each vial with the scent and concentration and use new atomisers. Most bottles that change hands were gifts that never suited or blind buys that smelled different on skin, and saying which yours was, and how many times you sprayed it, tells a buyer more than any adjective about the scent.